Picture stories

November 14, 2010

Short picture stories today.

This is tripod, who as you can see has only three working legs. Apparently one of the previous medic groups operated on his injured leg (probably caught in the barbed wire) and then adopted him. I won’t go into the story (or stories) of the stray dogs on the base. I find it pretty depressing at times but also quite inspiring I suppose. If these dogs can have such enthusiasm for life in difficult circumstances then I’m sure there’s a message in there for us too.

On the day that the nurse accidentally killed an adult hedgehog, one of the soldiers found this baby hedgehog. I haven’t seen it since but I’m hoping that it is still alive somewhere.

I’ve been amazed at the number of birds near the base. At the moment we have quite a few hornbills, and one was seen eating a snake a few days ago. There are many lizards (who thrive in these hot conditions) so I’m guessing that they would eat those too.

And then I was really wishing for a telephoto lens to capture the beauty of the blue bird. It has bright blue (or aquamarine) wings and a long tail. Sudan is full of surprises.

I’m hoping to manage a few more reviews before I leave here in a month’s time. Maybe I’ll compare Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s excellent collection of short stories The thing around your neck with William Trevor’s A bit on the side. But we’re also taking a trip this week to two other bases so I may have to tell you about those instead.

Have a good week.


The hedgehog and the nurse

November 4, 2010

The first I hear of the hedgehog is from the outgoing psychologist, who is a little bristly himself with his short ginger hair and ginger beard.

“Look out for the hedgehog,” he says. “It lives under the mortuary and comes out sometimes at night. There used to be a family of them but I think the guards must have killed them. It’s harmless.”

I’m intrigued. A hedgehog in this hot, dry place? I’m already surprised at the number of trees in the base and at the flock of birds that nest in the white satellite dishes and around the mess. You see them at dusk, sweeping through the cool air like a small cloud of bats.

The mortuary is a container with steel drawers situated next to the health staff accommodation. It is covered with brown shade-cloth and cooled by an air-conditioner. A perfect place perhaps for a family of hedgehogs you might think. Cool, safe from the boys of the village and near enough to humans to scavenge for food.

Perhaps the hedgehogs had it all worked out. After roll call there’s enough peace and quiet to make a beeline across the path and to the dustbin. Except today is different. Today we have room inspection and stand around for an extra 20 minutes while the base Colonel makes his rounds like some kindly headmaster.

Our own Colonel (bristling himself at the idea that the base Colonel can inspect the health group’s rooms) suddenly lets out a cry.

“Watch out!” he yells, pointing behind us. We all jump out of the way, hands up to protect our faces as we look round at what might be about to attack us. There, next to one of the cubicles, is a small hedgehog. I am delighted. It’s still alive. After the last one found on the rubbish dump I thought they were all dead. Our Colonel steps up to the creature, picks it up by its bristles and carries it back to the mortuary where he puts it under the shade-cloth. One of the thin stray dogs of the base gets up and slinks over to the mortuary and I follow to see if it’s going to try something. But it just sidles through a gap in the wall and out of the way.

If the hedgehog has any sense it will stay put. But perhaps it’s hungry (or pregnant) and desperate enough to take the risk. After a couple of minutes it comes bustling out again and heads straight for one of the nurses who is standing in the path. A smallish, pleasant-enough woman (or so I think). Who then proceeds to give it a hefty kick with her military boots.

The poor thing is stunned but still manages to roll itself up into a ball, which then rolls for a yard or so and comes to rest in the dust.
I’m shocked. Why would she do such a thing? I guess that she got a fright and was reacting out of instinct. And I remember the little shudder of disgust she gave when we were all taking cover the first time.

As we’re standing there, a bit in shock, one of the sergeant-majors picks up the hedgehog and turns it over. Such a cute little creature underneath all those bristles. That soft white fur, the cute face. It’ looks wounded and he takes it off to the wall to put it in the shade.

A few hours later I see one of the Majors standing by the wall having a look. There’s the hedgehog, lying still as can be, with a few ants already making an inspection. It’s dead.

I feel saddened and angry and I remember my time at a black school in Limpopo where the kids used to stone the owls that took refuge in one of the classrooms. As teachers we tried to educate them about why owls are good and not things to be feared and hated. But the fear and disgust was such a strong reaction. How do you work against culture?

But here, what can I do? This is an educated woman, at the same rank level as I am. We have to work together (or at least co-operate with each other) for the time of our deployment. What good would it do to speak to her and tell her that it’s wrong to kill small creatures?

At brunch I see her walking in, laughing to one of her colleagues. She comes to our table and sits down, smiling a bit nervously.

“Eish, I’m so tired” she says with a little giggle. And I know immediately that I can’t just sit here and say nothing and eat at the same table as her. At the risk of provoking a racial incident I get up, my hands shaking a little (I realise with surprise) and address myself to her.

“Sorry,” I say, “but I just don’t want to sit at the same table as you today. I’m still a bit angry with you.”

She raises her hand, half in apology and half to avoid having to see my face.

“Sorry,” she says.


Tummy tuck Darfur style

November 2, 2010

I was hoping to post a few pictures of life in the military base but the internet here is particularly slow so that will have to wait. Instead I want to give you a contrast between life at a South African military base in Sudan and the life of the new elite back home.

Life in the military base is better than I expected. I have my own room and my own office, the food is edible and I have time to read and surf the Net. The water shortages are a bit of a pain but I’m getting used to having to queue for showers and to structure my day accordingly. At least the water is lukewarm after the cold water shock treatment of the mobilisation camp.

After roll call (where we get the usual lecture about how when we put on this uniform we are submitting to military discipline), I get to spend most of the day in my office where, if I’m lucky, I’ll get to read for several hours.

First up is the online news. Over tea, cornflakes and powdered milk (not all together you understand) I check the headlines. Three of the most viewed stories on IOL (Independent Online) today are:

1. Giant pothole swallows car in Germany
2. Mount Merapi engulfs Indonesia
3. Party number two for Kenny

Now I’m sorry about the poor people in Indonesia but what grabs my attention is the story about Kenny. Is this portaloo Kenny? How does an Aussie mockumentary star make it onto number five of the most viewed stories on IOL?

I quickly scan the story. No, it’s a Joburg businessman who celebrated his 40th birthday in style by having his guests eat sushi off the stomachs of bikini-clad models. Said Kenny Kunene:

“I even had models lying down on tables so my guests could nibble sushi served on their stomachs. It was the best sushi I have ever had in my life. I couldn’t ask for more … It happens everywhere behind closed doors. I chose to do it in the public. Because I am from Africa does not mean I am rural. We are living in the 21st century and this happens in Europe and all over the world. I’m really glad I did it, because it was so much of fun.”

Ah, what is Black Economic Empowerment for, after all, if not for the new elite to enjoy their sushi from the belly-buttons of whomever they choose?

In reply to a trade-union leader who criticised the R700,000 party and called Kunene a pig, the tycoon shot back:

“I have absolutely no problem with people speaking their minds, but Vavi is the biggest hypocrite I have ever met. Just because I am a black man, Vavi has decided to have a go at me, because he believes I got my money from doing crooked things. …[...] It’s an insult to me … [...] Vavi hates to see young black men succeed and it makes me sick to my stomach. He also called me a pig, which is uncalled for.”

I hope it was just Vavi’s comment that made him sick to his stomach and not eating raw fish off the raw tummies of young models. Here in the base our eating habits are far too tame by comparison. Every day is pretty much the same. Pap and vleis (maize-meal porridge and meat) which we eat off white plastic plates in the mess. If we’re lucky there’ll be chicken or beef stew with yellow rice and vegetables. A far cry from bikini sushi you would agree. And of course there’s no Dom Perignon to wash it down either. Diluted Oris some mealtimes and at others just water.

Perhaps next time I’m eating my pretty-good-in-the-circumstances-but-still-rather-depressing-fare in the mess, I’ll raise a plastic beaker of diluted Oros to those Joburg tycoons and their sushi-scoffing tummy tuck habits. I was thinking it’s probably a good thing he didn’t try and eat his California rolls off L’s tummy because I think the turtle (aka Baby F) would give them a good kick and he would be scrabbling around on the floor like, well, like the cigar-toting pig that he is.

What would George Orwell say? Incidentally, while we’re still on the news, did you see the Halloween picture of the Obamas with Dracula and Frankenstein? I thought at first that they’d resurrected Michael Jackson but now that I look properly, Frankenstein and Michael Jackson are completely different. Both a little pale and freakish perhaps but I think that Jacko would probably have scared the kids a little more. (Sorry, that was bitchy. Put it down to 44 days of captivity I mean deployment.)

At least we don’t have to eat our daily rations off the tummies of the new recruits. That would have me running for the water-restricted facilities double quick march!


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