A sunrise, an ostrich and a cross-dresser

September 30, 2010

Once a journalist, always a journalist (or at least a blogger). One of the things I’ve been doing over the past 10 days is to take pictures. Most of the time I only have my phone with me but it’s still good enough to catch the occasional ostrich walking through the camp or some fellow soldiers doing a roleplay.

View from my tent at 6am

Nice view, hey? I still remember my ‘rule of thirds’ which says you should have something interesting happening on one or more of the third-lines of your photo.

Ostrich heading for the washing.

Lastly, a quick one of the soldiers doing a ‘fighting tempations’ roleplay. The guy with the curtain-tie on his head is playing the part of a local Muslim woman who has got involved with a South African soldier. Strictly forbidden from both sides of course but it could still happen. I don’t need to tell you that the roleplay ended badly on both sides. The woman was ‘stoned’ by the local community (with plastic bottles in this case) and the soldier had a choice between castration and repatriation to South Africa. Of course we laughed a lot at the ridiculousness of the situation. Anything for some light relief when you’re deploying to a strict Muslim country for six months.

'It was him'


Life in Camp

September 27, 2010

View from the camp

The camp was situated on arid land, sparsely dotted with abandoned Turkana huts, stunted trees and shrubs. A line of hills in the middle distance marked the border between Sudan and Kenya. (The Lost Boy by Aher Arop Bol)

I’ve been reading The Lost Boy by Aher Arop Bol and have been quite moved by his account of his escape from Southern Sudan at the time of the first civil war (1987). I’m two-thirds of the way through and he’s reached Zimbabwe where the UNHCR has reluctantly agreed to pay his school fees to a mission school. Whenever I think my life here in camp is bad (and it’s not really that bad, cold water at 5.30am notwithstanding), I think about Aher’s journey down from Sudan without a passport, very little money and facing untold hardships along the way.

For now, I’ll just share a few pics with you before I head off for a lecture on “mine awareness”. Should be riveting I’m sure.

The inside of our weatherhaven

My bed before the shopping trip

And afterwards


Deployment: Day one

September 20, 2010

I think we’ve got about 45 minutes more power today and then the lights will go off abruptly and I’ll swear as I stumble through to the ablution block in the dark to brush my teeth. No cold shower for me tonight. I’ll save that for tomorrow.

Right now I’m sitting in my sleeping bag in my corner-bed and feeling pleased that I made it through the day without any major mishap. I’m sad that I’m away on deployment (missing L, missing home) and anxious about what will happen here and in Sudan but I’m glad that I made it this far. And L put little scan pics in my books to remind me of our little turtle. I felt bad that I couldn’t comfort her in person when she was feeling sad this evening but I did say that I’d call every day and text her a lot. So far I’ve found one present in my packing (The Quickening Maze by Adam Foulds) and of course it’s just the sort of book I love and so it’s one more confirmation (if one was needed) that I’m really lucky to have found L.

Just to tell you briefly about our holiday, we had a lovely three days away in Sedgefield staying in a luxury treehouse. We walked, admired the indigenous forest, listened to the birds, admired the views some more, breathed in the fresh air, cooked, ate delicious food, read, played scrabble, watched Foyle’s War, got lost on the River Walk, took pictures, nearly froze in chilly temperatures, had lovely baths, made friends with a Cape Robin, saw a Knysna Lourie and generally did the kinds of things that you would expect on such a holiday. Perfect. (Thanks to L for booking and catering.)

And on the last day, as I was writing a message in the guest book about our time there, who should I discover had a left a similar message from a year before? Charlotte! How cool is that? I had no idea that she’d been there but it does make sense that we would like similar places since we share similar perspectives on other things.

And then we were driving back to Cape Town and I was trying to avoid packing until I couldn’t anymore and then also having lunch with my family. My sister organised the most beautiful cake in the shape of the map of Africa showing South Africa and Sudan and decorated it with toy soldiers. It was quite brilliant. And L made the most scrumptious trifle in honour of my gran who would have been 108 years old on Sunday (if she hadn’t died 21 years before).

But back to today. Just to let you know that I’m fine and surviving deployment life so far. I’m not crazy about sharing a big tent with nine other guys but they seem nice enough. The guy opposite is M, who will be replacing me in Sudan in December, and we’ve been keeping each other company today since we both caught the same flight and lift here.

Supper was dreary. Rice, stew and cauliflower in a tin box (called a Dixie) and we ate in the dark since the lights went out.

One funny thing I should tell you about. I was just congratulating myself on getting a corner bed when a Colonel walks in and tells me that I’m on his bed. This was like being back at boarding school where the prefects throw their weight around. Except I didn’t notice his rank and so when he told me that this was his bed, I politely said that I didn’t see anything on it when I came in and that I would prefer to stay here if he didn’t mind. He then moved off to the next tent and it was only when he’d gone that the others started laughing and told me that I (as a lowly Captain) had just gone against the hierarchy by standing up to a Colonel. He subsequently came back in later (about something else) and there doesn’t appear to be any animosity although my anxiety levels spiked a little when I thought he was sitting next to me at dinner (in the dark). Perhaps I can just plead ignorance on most military matters and get through the next three months that way.

A couple of pics:

This is what a weatherhaven looks like

And then where I’d rather be (and where L and I were last week) …


Clearing out

September 14, 2010

In true military fashion, let me give you a list of what’s happening:

1. Today is my last day in the office as I’m on holiday from Weds to Fri and will be leaving for the mobilisation area on Monday.

2. I have so much packing to do that it’s frightening.

3. I will be spending a whole month in the mobilisation area (in the Free State, still in South Africa) and this is apparently worse than the deployment itself.

4. I will then be in Darfur until Christmas (at the earliest). The Colonel says he will do his best to get me back by then. And my replacement is getting ready to go so I’m going to trust that this will happen.

5. I am not feeling very well. Hopefully the holiday will help. L and I will be staying in a treehouse near Sedgefield. I’ll take pictures.

6. I’ll check in again from the mobilisation area. Maybe once I’m there I can start to see this an adventure.

7. Until then I’m seeing this as a bit overwhelming. The paperwork alone is staggering. And nominating beneficiaries in the event of something happening was a little depressing. But we’ll get through this. Chat soon.


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